Uncovering the Rich History of Zutphen: A Tour Through Time

As we travel through life, we often get caught up in the excitement of discovering new places and cultures. The allure of far-off lands and exotic destinations can be hard to resist. So on social media, we share pictures of the Eiffel Tower, the Golden Gate Bridge, or the Sydney Opera House as trophies of our successful lifestyle. 

However, have you ever stopped to consider the beauty and wonder that lies right in your own backyard? How well do you really know your own country? Have you explored the best cities, museums, history, nature, cafes, shops, and beaches that it has to offer?

For most of us, the answer is likely no. We may know the names of cities and towns we pass by on our daily commute or on road trips, but do we truly know what they have to offer? Many of us take for granted the wealth of history, culture, and natural beauty within our borders.

Since I started writing the newsletter, I learned that you, my readers, enjoyed my descriptions of the nature and history of my small village on the island just as much as those from well-known foreign destinations. As a result, I realize, much better than in my younger days, that exploring your own country can be an enriching experience. 

It is a more budget-friendly option than traveling abroad and allows you to discover hidden gems and unique experiences that you may not have known existed. In an age where we collectively cross the planetary boundaries, we might all want to spend a bit more time to take a closer look at the place we call home and discover the beauty and wonder that lies just beyond our front door. As an example, I took this photo one morning just beyond the front door: a thin layer of frost on the plants in the small garden. 

And one more for which I didn't even have to leave my home: this was the sight of a spectacular sunrise when I opened the curtains of the bedroom one recent morning. 

In that spirit, I recently decided to take a detour on my way to Germany and stopped in the Dutch city of Zuthpen. I had no specific plans or sights to see in mind; the fact that I didn't even know what was there to explore made me want to visit the city. And I was not disappointed.

Zutphen is a charming, historic city located in the eastern Netherlands. It is not far from Deventer, another beautiful Dutch town I only discovered several years ago when I passed through it on a long-distance walking trail from the east of the Netherlands to the coastline in the west. 

Both cities were part of the Hanseatic League, an influential medieval trading alliance that existed from the 13th to the 17th century. It was a federation of merchant guilds and market towns that controlled trade along the Baltic and North Sea coasts. As a result, it significantly shaped northern Europe's economic, political and cultural landscape during its time.

Zutphen and Deventer played essential roles in the league's trading activities. Zutphen was an important center for the trade of textiles, while Deventer was known for its grains and other foodstuffs. In addition, both cities were strategically located along major trade routes, making them important hubs for the league's commercial activities.

When I visited these cities, I could still see the significant influence that the Hanseatic League had had on them, not just in economic terms but also in cultural and architectural aspects. Both cities have a rich history and heritage. For example, Zutphen has a well-preserved medieval center, with many buildings that date back to the Hanseatic period. 

I was pleasantly surprised to discover that Zutphen is such a charming and historic city that I had passed so often on the highways without ever stopping to enjoy its picturesque old town. The city offers something for everyone. Whether you're a history buff, an art lover, or simply looking for a scenic place to explore.

So let me take you on a short tour. I have made many more photos, but I know by now that there are limits to the number of pictures I can share in one newsletter. 

I started here, at the Berkelpoort. It is one of the gates to the city, and the archways could be closed off in case of hostilities. You can see the loopholes and embrasures used to bombard the enemy with stones and boiling pitch from the wall walk. The gate connected the old city to the new town, two parts of the city that became one administrative district in 1312.

I then walked into the old town, which is a true joy for anyone who appreciates history and architecture. The streets are lined with beautiful, well-preserved houses, many of which date back to the Hanseatic period. I discovered hidden alleys and charming courtyards, each with a unique character and charm. I found the beautiful facing bricks that adorn many of the houses in the old town one of the highlights. I recently photographed several of them in Middelburg and still wanted to share these with you, but Zutphen has some beautiful ones too. Here are some examples.

These intricate designs often tell the story of the house's name or its historical significance. The motifs and inscriptions give a fascinating glimpse into the past and the people who lived in these houses.

I found a unique blend of old and new in the Broederenkerk ("Brothers Church"). Built by the Dominicans in the 14th century, it now houses the public library. In 1772, a small bell tower was added to the church. It accommodates the Poortersklokje (which translates to "the clock of the guards of the city gates"). The clock was rung daily at 9:50 pm to let the citizens know that the city gate was about to close ten minutes later. 

I left the church and wandered the streets of the old town, where I felt a sense of connection to the city's rich history and unique atmosphere that makes you feel as if you've stepped back in time. Although I didn't know much more about Zutphen than that it was an old Hanseatic town, there was one thing that I had heard of and was anxious to visit: the "Librije." It is the world-famous 16th-century chained library.

It was easy to find since it is located inside the St. Walburgis Church, a Gothic-style church that is one of the most famous landmarks in Zutphen and is known for its beautiful stained glass windows and impressive bell tower. In the 16th century, the church was used as a weapons warehouse during the Eighty Years' War and as a hospital during World War II.

The library's collection includes books on a wide variety of subjects, such as theology, history, and literature. It is known as the finest untouched chained library in the world, still containing the old books attached to their bookcases by a chain. I joined a small group that was allowed in with an excellent guide who shared many details of the long history of this library.

Many of the books are written in Latin, and some are illuminated manuscripts, which are books that were hand-written and decorated with intricate illustrations and designs. There are books by Copernicus and Erasmus, and one of the most notable books in the library's collection is the "Zutphen Bible," which is a 15th-century illuminated manuscript that was created for the church. The Bible is considered a masterpiece of medieval art and is one of the most valuable books in the library's collection.

The guide also showed me the unique chandelier, probably dating back to 1394, with a story depicted on the side that leaves historians still debating its meaning. 

One more photo of the church's ceiling; note the sponsorship of the bakers guild. 

I found the old town of Zutphen a treasure trove of history and culture, waiting to be discovered and enjoyed. It's a place where the past and present come together uniquely and beautifully, making it a must-see destination for anyone interested in history and architecture. Furthermore, it's just a train ride from Amsterdam, and you can easily combine a visit with nearby Deventer.

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